Showing posts with label Orona Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Orona Island. Show all posts

9/18/15

2015 Expedition: Never a dull moment

Aquarium researchers and staff are on expedition to the remote Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) to study the natural history of the islands, surrounding reefs and connecting open water ecosystems. Research on the 2015 expedition will directly inform the management and maintenance of this world-renowned MPA. Today's post comes from the expedition's chief scientist in the field Sangeeta Mangubhai.

A challenging first day at Orona Atoll – heavy rainfall, strong winds, ocean swell, a skiff needing repairs and then a warning about a tsunami moving across the Pacific Ocean and destined to reach us at 3 a.m. tomorrow morning. It is also 17 days into our expedition and the team is starting to feel a little fatigued. Everyone is encouraged to take days off if they need it to re-energise, but scientists are a stubborn focused lot. We recognize that each day out here is precious. A day resting means one less day of data.

Our dives at Orona Atoll were very different from others. Our first dive was on the windward side, and we jumped into a spectacular healthy, diverse coral community at a site called ‘Aerials.’ Free of bleaching and with little disease, the corals were thriving and densely packed together. We also saw a couple of black tip sharks early in our dive, and the water was abuzz with fish. The highlight for the fish team was seeing bumphead parrotfish, which have remained elusive on the other islands.

Photo by S. Harper


Our second dive was characterized by a very bare reef, with little living coral community. During our early expeditions, we hypothesized that nutrients may have been leaching from the lagoon onto the reefs causing poor conditions for corals. However, a decade later we know this is not the case, and the likely cause is from an old ship wreck that has been on that reef since 1936. We are starting to build up evidence in the Pacific of ship wrecks causing mass mortality of corals, and leaving behind what is called a ‘black reef.’ Peter Gawne and I have been collecting water samples, and in collaboration with Jessica Carilli and Randi Rotjan, we will be doing experiments towards the end of the trip to assess whether iron from these ship wrecks are leaching out and causing these extensive black reefs to form.

Coral bleaching of Hydnophora rigida off Orona (Photo by S. Mangubhai)

Our last dive was on the leeward side was characterized by large areas of coral bleaching. The bleaching was mainly in a branching species called Hydnophora rigida which carpeted large areas of the reef. This means that the warm pool of water that is sitting over the central Pacific extends as far as Orona, and this thermal stress is causing corals to start bleaching. We have seen early signs of coral bleaching at each of the six islands we have surveyed to date. At each island, it is almost the same species that are first to bleach. [See pictures of bleached corals from Kanton Island.]

Over the next three days Yashika Nand and I will have a chance to conduct extensive surveys all around the island, weather permitting. We have just come back in from deeper water where we spent the night, waiting for the tsunami to dissipate by the time it reaches us in the Phoenix Islands. All dives are now back on, as we are safe and unaffected. Back to the blue!

— Sangeeta

8/4/14

SEA 2014: Orona Island (July 28)

A six-week expedition with Sea Education Association (SEA) to the Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) is underway. This will mark the first-ever oceanographic cruise to PIPA, and is a historic collaboration between SEA, the New England Aquarium, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Republic of Kiribati. The objectives of this mission include the high-quality education of 13 students in both science and policy aspects of PIPA as well as scientific goals, which will be detailed in the coming weeks and months here on this blog.

This post comes from research intern Luke Faust.

Monday July 28

If you were to have asked me to describe a remote tropical island before this trip, I would have said uninhabited, white sandy beaches, calm, perfectly blue waters, lush green vegetation going right up to the beach with a few coconut trees sprinkled in. That description fits the island of Orona pretty perfectly. It is a very beautiful island. Similarities to Kanton are obvious. Both have the same general shape of a ring of land around a large lagoon in the center connected to the ocean. Orona also has also been greatly affected by humans, but not in such an obvious way as Kanton. During parts of the 19th century there was a copra plantation on Orona. Many coconut trees were planted and still remain in very good health.

Orona Island from a future expedition

They are very clearly now the dominant plant species on Orona even though before the plantation, likely few to none of them existed here. Until twelve years ago, the coral reefs would have fit right in with the ideal description for the rest of Orona. The coral bleaching event of 2002 hit especially hard at Orona and is still not in very good shape. There are massive heads of dead coral, with lots of algal growth on them. Our landings onto the island consisted of sliding up stretches of smooth bleached coral.

It is clear that the reef here used to be magnificent. There is recovery in many places, but still a long way to go. One of the reasons Orona, like most of the Phoenix Islands, has been able to recover is the presence of deeper reefs farther offshore, which were not affected by the bleaching event in 2002 or the smaller ones since then. Having another reef close by is critical to recovery as it can be a source of larval coral and other animals important to the reef. The fact that the deeper reefs have remained unaffected by the recent bleaching events is encouraging for the long-term health of the coral reefs in the Phoenix Islands. With ocean temperature rising these bleaching events will only become more common, but hopefully the deeper reefs remain healthy and can always help in recovery and restocking.

A small black tip reef shark in the shallows at Orona.

As Michael mentioned in the last post, inside one of the channels we found a black tip reef shark nursery. Even though the water in the channel was no more than a few feet in depth, tons of these shark pups were there swimming around. Orona seems to be a hotspot for sharks, as out in the reefs on the
ocean side we saw a few four foot long black tip reef sharks and a white tip reef shark. After hearing about the sharks in the Phoenix Islands for so long, and hearing about all the sharks our shark researchers were catching, it was nice to get such a full experience here. Sea turtles were another animal many of us had been hoping to see, but up to this point very few had. It seemed like every snorkel mission would come back with tales of huge sea turtles they saw swimming through the water. Our best turtle sighting though was when we saw a pair of them mating off to the left of our ship. They were
at the surface of the water so perfect viewing conditions for something no one expected to see. It was very cool.

We only have about a week left before leaving PIPA, but still have to visit Winslow Reef and Nikumaroro. Right now we are heading up to Winslow Reef, having already passed over a trench and
seamount on our way there.

Luke Faust

7/30/14

SEA 2014: Orona and tuna

A six-week expedition with Sea Education Association (SEA) to the Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) is underway. This will mark the first-ever oceanographic cruise to PIPA, and is a historic collaboration between SEA, the New England Aquarium, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Republic of Kiribati. The objectives of this mission include the high-quality education of 13 students in both science and policy aspects of PIPA as well as scientific goals, which will be detailed in the coming weeks and months here on this blog.

This is a cross post from the SEA Expedition Blog.

With but a few shots of chain our anchors have been securely placed and we sit in the calm waters of the lee of Orona. Many coconut palm trees forty feet tall or more sit just off our bow hiding the long silent remains of human settlement, peering at us out from the underbrush. A few teams fought the surge through the coral barrier pocketed with underwater caves that surrounds the island to make our way to the lagoon.

Orono Island photographed on a previous expedition

While the corals of Orona are still recovering from the last bleaching event there were lots of persevering coral patches interspersed with giant clams, their neon turquoise of their lips standing out against the sand and rock. One of the tidal channels that dots the island, connecting lagoon to ocean, was dotted with the small black fins of a reef shark nursery. Dozens of the pups playfully swam around amongst schools of mullets and jacks or darting away from a few intrepid explorers chasing them with Go-Pros. And although lone concrete steps stoically mark where humans have scared the area, these
things so easily seen are not the only ones of concern nor interest.

A shark along the reef of Orona from a previous Aquarium expedition


PIPA has been a very important part of the Kiribati fishery, accounting for as much as 43% of the tuna catch taken from Kiribati waters although accounting for as little as 11% of their EEZ (Exclusive Economic Zone) (A fact farther ingrained by the four fishing vessels we've seen in the few days that we've been within PIPA waters. (One of which was unfortunately within the no fishing zone around Kanton (Aba-Riringa)) Despite the implicit availability of adult tuna within the area there has not been much research done into PIPA as a tuna nursery nor the possible distributions or species of larval tuna that may be present in the abundant waters.

A pair of Katsuwonus pelamis (Skipjack tuna) under the microscope.

So far we have been able to identify several different species of tuna larvae within PIPA waters using a variety of nets as well as other larvae of the same sub-order of tuna (Scombrid) which has been incredibly exciting. Hopefully we will soon have an idea about some of the species of tuna spawning in PIPA as well as relative distributions as concentrations amongst the islands, as we push onwards into deeper water and the data continues to pile up.

For now however we will enjoy the palm trees, beaches, flora, fauna, and waters of Orona. While sending out the doubtless dozens of scientific missions whilst under the calm of anchor in the endeavor to learn as much and as quickly as we can about the environment we have but a moment's insight into.

After all: "Science never sleeps."

— Michael S. Heard-Snow
Northeastern University

6/29/12

Orona Island: Underwater

This is blog entry posted from the field during the 2012 Phoenix Islands Marine Protected Area (PIPA) Expedition. The Phoenix Islands are an isolated island chain more than 1,000 miles southwest of Hawaii. They are part of the island nation of Kiribati, which partnered with the New England Aquarium and Conservation International to create PIPA in 2008. Today it is one of the world's largest marine protected areas and a UNESCO world heritage site. This voyage is part of a regular series of scientific expeditions to investigate coral health and study ecosystems and biodiversity.

Photographer Keith Ellenbogen, a regular Aquarium blog contributor, is on the expedition capturing stunning underwater photos of marine life, like these images from dives near Orona Island.

In a previous post we discussed evidence of human influence on the terrestrial side of Orona: ancient Polynesian villages, a more recent (2001) settlement project that was rather short-lived. But there is underwater evidence as well. For example, abandoned anchors off of old ships lying undisturbed amidst the corals.

Anchor left on the reef
But there are also lingering global influences that are evidenced by what is NOT present on the reef. For example, lack of live coral. These mostly dead and overgrown coral skeletons are remnants from previous bleaching events, the most severe of which occurred in 2002-2003.

A lone shark swims over a reef of encrusted coral skeletons
All is not lost, however. As was found on the 2009 expedition, the reef was seen to be rapidly recovering from bleaching, thanks in part to reef herbivores that were keeping the dead substrate clean and ready for coral recolonization. Thanks to these coral reef "lawnmowers", the reef is mostly free from the weedy macroalgal species that are competitively dominant. Instead, the reef harbors mostly Halimeda (a green calcareous algae) and CCA (crustose coralline algae, in pink), which do not impede the resettlement of corals.

Reef herbivores (Acanthurids) graze turf and macroalgae off the reef

And the fish just keep on coming.... even in the depths


...And in the shallows
The presence of such high abundance and diversity of fishes is likely a key part of reef recovery. Part of the beauty of PIPA is that all of the island-surrounding reefs are part of the no-take portion of the MPA, which means no fishing. No fishing AT ALL. Hopefully, such conservation measures will enable these reefs to recover from the global impacts of climate change, and we will continue to document and observe the changes in these reef communities over time. 

6/21/12

Orona Island: Topside

This is blog entry posted from the field during the 2012 Phoenix Islands Marine Protected Area (PIPA) Expedition. The Phoenix Islands are an isolated island chain more than 1,000 miles southwest of Hawaii. They are part of the island nation of Kiribati, which partnered with the New England Aquarium and Conservation International to create PIPA in 2008. Today it is one of the world's largest marine protected areas and a UNESCO world heritage site. This voyage is part of a regular series of scientific expeditions to investigate coral health and study ecosystems and biodiversity.

Photographer Keith Ellenbogen, a regular Aquarium blog contributor, is on the expedition capturing stunning underwater photos of marine life as well as these topside images of Orona Island. Descriptions are written by Randi Rotjan.

Orona Island is relatively lush, hosting many prominent coconut palms, scrub brush and other trees. The expedition team went ashore to assess infrastructure that was previously installed by the Kirabati government in 2001. The idea was to host a small fishing settlement, but the project was unsuccessful, likely due to the extreme isolation and resulting issues (freshwater availability, supply runs, etc). Though the infrastructure is relatively new (only a decade old!), you can see the impact of the intense sun and salt spray. Interestingly, Orona also hosts prehistoric Polynesian ruins ... but those are on the other side of the island and were not visited by the team. That's the thing about the Phoenix Islands - tiny specks in the Pacific, but yet there's always more to see.

Orona Island (Photo: K. Ellenbogen)

A Maneeba (local word for village hall) (Photo: K. Ellenbogen)


On Orona Island in the Central Pacific a safe remains locked within the bank. 
A place to withdraw money... but there's no treasure left. (Photo: K. Ellenbogen)


Tuake Teema explores and assesses the conditions of the island and village that was last inhabited in 2001. (Photo: K. Ellenbogen)

The remnants of  a church bell from 2001. This bell was rung every Sunday.  (Photo: K. Ellenbogen)


A korean or japanese-style fishing helmet with a light that washed ashore in Orona Island.
There is lots of shoreline debris littering the islands (read more here).