3/13/13

A Whale’s Tale of the Phoenix Islands: Connecting New England to the Pacific

Following up on the theme posted in March 2012, this is a guest post from Erin Taylor, Boston University student and 2012–2013 Intern to the New England Aquarium Conservation Department on the Phoenix Islands Protected Area initiativeIn a series of posts she will share research on 19th century sperm whaling in the Phoenix Islands. This careful examination of whalers' log books, maps and historic whale distributions may help researchers studying sperm whale populations in Kiribati today.

New England may seem a world away from the remote, tropical island nation of Kiribati, especially during these cold, gray months. However, a look back in time reveals a deep connection between the two areas. This is because Kiribati, and the Phoenix Islands, were at the center of vigorous efforts by 19th century New Englanders, particularly those of New Bedford and Nantucket, to hunt what were then considered monsters of the sea—whales.

Chasing Sperm Whales

Sperm whales are what brought Yankee whalers to this region. These whales were prized for the gallons of highly valuable spermaceti found in the head of each whale. Spermaceti could be turned into high-grade oil for lamps and wax for candles. This pursuit turned into a global industry, which was a major fuel for the growth of a young United States.


Archibald Thorburn, 1860–1935 | Public domain in United States, via Wikimedia Commons

The Hunting Grounds

Hotspots for whaling were known as whaling grounds. Whalers shared with each other these locations where abundant whales were likely to be found. This information was invaluable, as voyages required a large investment of time and money, with trip lengths typically lasting three to five years. Whalers did not want return from voyages empty-handed. Kiribati and the Phoenix Islands were part of what were called the “on-the-line” whaling grounds—a prominent hotspot that stretched along the equator in the central Pacific.

Map showing the Pacific whaling grounds | Map courtesy The National Archives, Kew.

Though New Englanders began venturing into the Atlantic Ocean to pursue sperm whales beginning in 1712, it was not until the late 1780’s that they rounded the tip of South America and sailed into Pacific waters. It took another quarter century for American whalers to establish ports in Hawaii and for the first vessels to reach Kiribati waters.

Word of the lucrative whaling potential in the newly discovered on-the-line grounds did not take long to reach the New England coast. By the 1840’s, 600 American vessels were operating in the central Pacific. Estimates suggest that throughout the 19th century whaling era in the Pacific, a thousand whaling ships passed through the Gilbert Islands of Kiribati and the neighboring Tuvalu.

Currier & Ives, 1850s | Photo in Public Domain in United States, via Wikimedia Commons

After peaking in the 1840’s and 1850’s, American whaling efforts declined due to a variety of factors, including increasingly scarce whale populations, a shift away from whaling to agricultural and mineral industries in the US, and the destruction of the labor force and whaling fleet during the Civil War. By 1870, the whaling industry had essentially died out in the region.

Devastating Consequences

Unfortunately, the aggressive efforts by New England whalers effectively decimated the populations of sperm whales in the waters surrounding Kiribati and the Phoenix Islands. Though nearly a century and a half have passed since the last Yankee whaling vessels sailed out of the on-the-line grounds, populations have not recovered to original levels. Recent expeditions indicate this once-abundant marine giant is now just a rare sight.


In an effort to understand the reasons behind the slow recovery and the status of sperm whale populations in Kiribati today, the Aquarium is studying historic whale distributions in the Phoenix Islands using records kept by whalers in their vessel logbooks. By studying where whalers found whales—and where they did not—we can learn a bit more about baseline populations and compare them to the scarce populations seen today.



12/10/12

Underwater Eden

The behind-the-scenes story of the creation of the PIPA is being told with the publication this month of Underwater Eden: Saving the Last Coral Wilderness on Earth by the University of Chicago Press and the New England Aquarium.


The book, edited by Dr. Greg S. Stone, Senior Vice President at the New England Aquarium and Executive Vice President and Chief Ocean Scientist at Conservation International, and Dr. David Obura, Adjunct Senior Scientist at New England Aquarium, tells the story of how they used cutting-edge science and developed innovative partnerships between conservationists, business interests, and governments to succeed in establishing the marine protected area.

“David and I want readers to see what we saw on our first dive in the Phoenix Islands – specifically that diving here is what it would have been like to dive in the ocean thousands of years ago,” Stone said. “We also want the story of PIPA to spread so it can inspire others to take charge as stewards of their own particular set of ocean.”

“What we see in the Phoenix Islands was hope,” Obura said. “While other parts of the ocean suffered the Phoenix Islands were supporting healthy corals and abundant fish populations and we are determined to keep it that way. It has been no easy task and the story isn’t over.”

In Underwater Eden, over 80 photographs by renowned underwater photographers, like Aquarium Explorer in Residence and an award-winning National Geographic Magazine photographer Brian Skerry, take readers underneath the surface of this central Pacific jewel and reveal the biodiversity that supports the food security, climate security, health and livelihoods of people.  

 Photo by Brian Skerry

All of the proceeds from the sale of Underwater Eden: Saving the Last Coral Wilderness on Earth will go to the PIPA Trust for the continued growth and maintenance of the protected area. Contributing authors include Curator of Fishes Steven L. Bailey, Associate Scientist Dr. Randi D. Rotjan, and Vice President of Conservation Heather Tausig.

 Photo by Brian Skerry

“From the air, the Phoenix Islands are tiny, low, remote, easily overlooked scraps of land in the Pacific Ocean. Underwater, they are the ocean’s equivalent of Amazon rainforests, teeming with tropical corals, fish, and sharks. But those species are under increasing assault from fishing boats, climate change, and introduced species. This remarkable book tells the story of ongoing imaginative efforts to create a huge protected area in a biological treasure-house.”
Jared Diamond, author of Guns, Germs, and Steel

Underwater Eden tells the story of how a very small group of exceptionally passionate people can—and did—accomplish something truly spectacular. They worked for years to protect the last virgin chain of unexplored coral reef islands in the world. It’s a story of tremendous vision and dedication. And success.”
Carl Safina, author of Song for the Blue Ocean

“If you have a passion for the oceans and care about conservation, read this remarkable book on innovative research, exploration and the preservation of a vast remote coral archipelago in the South Pacific.”
Harrison Ford, actor and vice chair of Conservation International

Click here to learn more, including how to order your copy.

About Phoenix Islands Protected Area Conservation Trust
The Phoenix Islands Protected Area Conservation Trust (PIPA Trust) is a not-for-profit non-governmental organization (NGO) established under the laws of the Republic of Kiribati. Its primary objective is to provide long-term sustainable financing for the conservation of terrestrial and marine biodiversity in the Phoenix Islands group. This will allow Kiribati to create the PIPA for the benefit of future generations of Kiribati citizens and the world without producing negative impacts on current national expenditures for health, education, and social welfare. 

7/29/12

The PIPA Song

In April I mentioned that a song dedicated to the Phoenix islands Protected Area was unveiled at a reception for the PIPA Trust board of directors. Here it is finally for the world to enjoy!


Photo Keith Ellenbogen and New England Aquarium

PIPA You Are My Gift To Humanity
song written by Betarim Rimon


Oh Oh Oh my beautiful Islands
Rising from your low and your lonely home
Proudly showing what a hero you are of all times
You will always be and you be in my heart

Chorus: We are so proud of you
Your valour and humour that bring us together
PIPA you are the one you are my gift to humanity
God Bless our islands full of dreams and sweet sweet memories
God Bless our islands full of dreams and sweet sweet memories

Oh Oh Oh my beautiful Islands
The beautiful beaches and the green swaying palms
The ocean rich in life so full of promises
Your love for all that you want to share your riches
Oh I am so proud of you I still love you so


7/14/12

The return journey

This is blog entry posted from the field during the 2012 Phoenix Islands Marine Protected Area (PIPA) Expedition. The Phoenix Islands are an isolated island chain more than 1,000 miles southwest of Hawaii. They are part of the island nation of Kiribati, which partnered with the New England Aquarium and Conservation International to create PIPA in 2008. Today it is one of the world's largest marine protected areas and a UNESCO world heritage site. This voyage is part of a regular series of scientific expeditions to investigate coral health and study ecosystems and biodiversity.

This post is from expedition leader Sangeeta Mangubhai.

We are on the return journey now, back to Apia, Samoa. The seas are rougher on the way home and many of my colleagues are down, bundled in their cabins. As boat pitches back and forth, I have the time to reflect on the expedition and what we have achieved.



In two short weeks we have managed to collect data on the health and resilience of the coral reefs to understand how the post-bleaching recovery is going. The "fish heads” from WHOI and KAUST have tagged nine manta rays from Kanton and Orona and there are data now being collected on how these animals move within and between islands in the Phoenix group, and how much time they spend on the open ocean. We have coral cores that WHOI researchers collected, which may tell us what has been the climatological history of the Phoenix Islands group over the last 200 to 250 years.

During the voyage home, I have been analyzing some of our monitoring data. Our temperature loggers are suggesting that there were unusually high temperatures in the Phoenix Islands in late 2009/early 2010 for about 3 to 6 months. I am keen to analyze all the photographs we collected on the coral benthos to assess whether this hot water event caused likely bleaching and mortality. It is a coral lover's worst nightmare – the thought of repeated coral bleaching events happening one after the other, leaving insufficient time for coral communities to fully recover, and changing reefs forever. However, as a coral ecologist, it remains instructive to observe the changing dynamics and to learn what we can from this special place.



It is clear from diving and collecting data on the reefs that the coral communities, especially those on the leeward side of reefs have undergone a large change, and the recovery is continuing slowly. Recruitment rates are low suggesting that these communities are relying on fragments of corals reattaching and growing, rather than large number of new corals settling on reefs.

Many of those iconic coral species on reefs like Acropora (which form everything from thick thickets to large plates), a decade after the 2002/2003 bleaching event, have not yet come back, suggesting the scarcity of healthy reproductive corals that would facilitate the recovery of these species. This is worrying, since Acropora corals create a lot of habitat diversity that is important to a number of fish species. However, there are still some areas where these Acropora corals thrive: places like Kanton lagoon and Enderbury, as well as many of the windward reefs are doing well, and hopefully will be a source of larvae that can help leeward side reefs recovery over the next decade.



What does give me hope is that our preliminary data analysis is showing that fish populations are healthy and continue to thrive. Large numbers of juvenile sharks at Kanton and Orona suggest that shark populations are well on their way to recovery. Where there are damaged reefs from old shipwrecks, large swarms of herbivorous fish are grazing away at the algae like lawn-mowers, keeping the algae from taking over the reefs.

It is clear that having healthy fish populations and not having additional man-made threats to stress
reefs further, is giving Phoenix Islands a fighting chance at recovery. The Phoenix Islands Protected Area is recovering at it's own pace, and will continue to inspire me and hopefully others to keep working on finding better ways to manage our coral reefs.

7/12/12

Phoenix Islands pen pals

A while back, we posted photos of the Kanton school children holding the school supplies sent by Emily Mead, an Aquarium volunteer and recent Weston graduate. The students have now returned the favor!

Emily Mead with the Boston Harbor in the background, holding letters from the Kanton residents. 
Kanton schoolchildren, holding supplies and letters from Emily Mead.

This relationship has been going back and forth for years; Emily sent supplies on the 2009 expedition as well. It may seem like a long time between letters (3 years!), but the delay and the remoteness haven't changed the fondness between Emily and the group.

The faces of Kanton! Bwena Owen, 11 years old.

Arieta Owen, 9 years old.


Enoka Naniseni, 9 years old.


If you would like to donate funds or supplies, please contact Regen Jamieson at rjamieson@neaq.org about the Kanton Campaign for Kids. We'll deliver them... but it might take a few years. ;-)